WHARFEDALE TOUR THE PICOS de EUROPA May 2025

After our 2024 epic tour of the Outer Hebrides. The question was, how do we follow it? Someone mentioned the Picos de Europa, I recall that it might have been following a conversation with Phil Gunn from Leicester Group. They had done something similar in either 2023 or 2024.

Through Phil we got in touch with Andy McCulloch of Casas Cantabricas, who specialise in car tours of Northern Spain and Portugal.

After many phone calls and emails with Andy, we finally came to rest on a tour, not easy as none of us had ever been to this region before. The number of nights away was also much discussed, the ferry cost being a not insignificant portion of the price.

The hotel locations we finally settled on with Andy’s guidance were – Cervera de Pisuerga, Leon, Gijon, Cosgaya and Puente Viesgo.

We also opted for the 20 hour one night crossing from Plymouth to Santander. The sailing dates were set, 7th May, return sailing 19th May.

We arrived in Santander around 14.30 on the 8th May, Andy had provided us with suggested routes between each hotel location, and we opted to follow his route to our first hotel, Parador de Cervera de Pisuerga, we had one night here, as it was meant to be an interim stop on the way to Leon. We had a good drive to the Parador, stopping off for coffee at Cueva del Soplao. The route also gave us a taste of the scenery to come.

I think it is helpful here to explain what a Parador is, I certainly had no idea before this trip. A Parador is a ‘state owned luxury hotel in Spain, often located in converted historic buildings, palaces, monasteries etc’ often full of charm and character.

Certainly, this first Parador had character and charm in spades, topped off by excellent food and great staff. We did wonder if we had set an early high bar.

Parador Pisuerga View from the bedroom balcony, not too bad...

Unfortunately, we had very mixed weather conditions the first week or so, mainly wet. So, our first morning in Northern Spain, and our drive to Leon was very damp.

We took the more scenic route option to Leon that Andy had provided us with, travelling via, and stopping at Villa Romana La Olmeda. This was an exceptional piece of restoration; the mosaics were incredible. Well worth the visit.

Some of the mosaics were just stunning.

Looking towards San Vicente.

Our hotel in Leon for 2 nights was the Real Colegiate de San Isidoro, which was a converted monastery, right in the centre of Leon. A great piece of history. The hotel didn’t serve evening meals, but we found ourselves a couple of great restaurants not far from the hotel. Leon has plenty of historical architecture, with a 10th century Basilica, and a 13th century cathedral. We didn’t do any driving during our stay in Leon. Hotel in Leon

Leon Cathedral, stunning.

Lovely evening meal in Cafe Victoria

Following our 2 nights in Leon it was time to move on to Gijon for the first of our 3-night stays. We took Andys suggested route and tweaked it, I should say that by this time we had turned on the ‘avoid motorway’ options on the sat navs, just to make sure we travelled the more scenic routes.

We had a fantastic drive through the Babia National Park, around Barrios de Luna, then around the top of Oviedo to our hotel, Parador de Gijon.

Los Barrios de Luna

Gijon is a large city right on the coast, with a large curving beach, the hotel was a 20-minute walk to the beach. Hindsight tells us that we would probably not have picked Gijon, and certainly not for 3 nights. But you don’t know at the time, however the Parador was very good. Nothing fundamentally wrong with Gijon, but it is a large city

The old quarter of Gijon

The group split up here on one of the days, a few of us went on the bus to Oviedo, 30 minutes away. Oviedo is a great place, it had a superb old quarter, with lots of squares and alley ways to explore. Others walked to the Botanical Gardens in Gijon, and others drove a short distance to Luanco, visited the lighthouse at Cabo de Penas, then went to Restaurante Le Fustariega at Verdicio for an excellent seafood lunch.

Various pics of Oviedo

Cabo de Pena's

Sardines of course.

I think it’s pertinent to mention here that we fell foul a few times of siesta opening and closing times, both for cafes, restaurants, and places to visit.

With our 3 nights in Gijon at an end, we headed for our next 3-night stay which was in Cosgaya, Hotel del Oso. We had a fantastic drive to Cosgaya, via Ribadesella, Cangas de Onis, and Potes. Brilliant.

Poo de Cabrales

Potes

Potes was another old and very attractive town, however, it was easy to see that in summertime it would be inundated with visitors and tourist coaches. The hotel reception recommended visiting Mogrovejo, a very traditional small village. It is only a couple of kilometres off the main road heading back to Potes from the hotel. Another little gem of a village, with a small café there as well. We sat outside the café watching Griffin Vultures circle over the hills in front of us, magical.

Hotel de Oso, was off-the-scale excellent for everything, location, character, rooms, staff, food, a definite 12/10 here! Talking to others in the hotel, it was their 4th and 6th time stay there.

Hotel Oso, Cosgaya, off the scale brilliant.

15 minutes from the hotel is the cable car at Fuente de, fortunately the morning we had booked, the skies had cleared and the sun was out, what a trip to the top, and the view at the top, 6080 feet up, breathtaking.

We were now on our return leg heading back towards Santander and the ferry, however we had one more 3-night stay in Puente Visego. We had a great run from Cosgaya to Puente Visego, travelling through Pesaguero, Pejanda, where we stopped at a great little quirky café for a coffee, just in the middle of nowhere. Headed onto Tudanca, then around to Puente Visego.

Pesaguero

Great Cafe stop in Pjanda

Tudanca

On the Saturday we drove to the Museum of Cueva de Altamira. Which depicts a facsimile of the local findings when the caves were discovered. No visit to the actual caves were possible. After this, we drove to the nearby village of Santillana del Mar, for lunch. What a stunning village! Fabulous historical buildings, and a lovely atmosphere to wander around in.

Some pics of Santillana Del Mar

Saturday night dinner in Punte Viesgo, in El Marques, excellent

Sunday was our last day, and Mike was desperate for a final mountain drive. Maps were opened out and a route determined.

We headed South from Puente Viesgo, on the N623, to the huge lake, Embalse del Ebro. Then turned right to follow the lake on the CA 171. Just after Reinosa we turned right to head over the mountains on the CA280, through Fresneda and Ruente. We found a great lunch stop, Mirador Pena Colsa. Then onwards to bear right through Torrelavega back to Puente Visego.

Lunch at Pena Colsa

Two of the group had an independent day and drove to Comillas and had lunch by the harbour and reported it was a lovely place to visit.

Fran looking expectantly at the Sardines

Well it wouldn't be a TR trip without some slight mishap. The last morning, heading to the Santander and the ferry, John Husseys 3A decided to shred its fan belt. No matter John had a spare and with Mike, and Phil's help it was changed fairly quickly. It was a tea time sailing so we had plenty of time. 

All in all, a really fabulous trip, with soem great company. If you are considering a visit to the Picos de Europa, then we thoroughly recommend it, and you won’t go wrong seeking out help from Casas Cantabrias. Thanks to everyone.

Ian Meeson